(c) Image courtesy of Balenciaga
district: SoHo
110 Greene Street New York New York 10012

In a nutshell

Bold, brutalist remake of a Soho flagship building showcases the brand's "Raw Architecture" aesthetic. Sparse, sustainable fittings in a generous space, evoke 'art gallery' and luxury at the same time

In their words

"Visitors enter a space conceived to instill a sense of temporality, in effect an art installation that interacts with fashion and its clientele in a singular way. The store’s spacious area... appear to be in disrepair, with patinas implemented as finishes that suspend the space in a state of progress. Artistry resembling demolition and intensive aging techniques reveal an accumulation of histories, including a vintage-style black-and-beige diamond-point marble tiled floor that resembles that of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s original Paris Couture atelier, opened in 1937. [...] Entered via an articulated hallway imagined as an escape from linearity, the interior design’s complex assemblage of overlapping architectural frameworks with careful attention to existing elements inherently results in the use of fewer raw materials, in keeping with Balenciaga’s commitment to sustainable methods. Ground and mezzanine levels are visually separated with a slab spanning the store’s width, while columns resist this spatial disruption, supporting saw-cut remains of solid pieces serving as display shelving. Circulation between floors is facilitated by an elevator at one end and a staircase at the other, each presented as freestanding entities, naturally spotlit by a central skylight that pierces through two layers of ceiling."

Visit Field notes

This is a statement store from the Kering-owned brand, leaning into the design language (called "Raw Architecture") that we see in the Chicago and Hamburg stores already. In Soho it is flexed in a generous 10,000 square foot space on two levels where pseudo-raw elements are worked alongside crafted elements. The space is reminiscent of a contemporary art gallery (the polished concrete of London's Tate Modern, or the the Berlin bunker of the Boros Foundation). The space speaks to the brand's positioning, namely "rebellion and timeless luxury, merging street-inspired cool with a sophisticated edge" (quoting Naomi Elizee at Vogue). There is so much space that the products have space to breathe and be admired, yet not so much that the store feels empty. The staffing ratio, approach and balance between greeters, sections, VIP and concierge attention is impressive. In their minimal uniforms (channelling Bond-villain-meets-MaitreD') they give a restrained yet very friendly aspect to the experience that's in keeping with the space. We are in an era of lush, prime-property luxury statements (see the listings for Tiffany, Louis Vuitton and Gucci by way of examples in NYC), but the challenge is to create a space where the architecture complements the retail purpose and elevates the selling opportunity. Balenciaga's store is a statement of purpose in both aspects. Staff are happy to chat about the architecture, and while there do check out the ceiling 'skylight' which is of course an enormous, controllable lighting source that plays with the notions of daytime (and perhaps increases the desire to spend? It's certainly a dopamine 'lift' on a dull New York winter's day!).

Other Reading

LAST VISITED

20/11/2024

Added

2024

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